Polki vs Kundan vs Jadau: The Real Difference (A Jaipur Jeweller's Guide)

Polki, Kundan and Jadau are closely connected in Indian jewellery, but each has its own distinct identity. To understand their difference, it helps to look at the stone, the setting and the craftsmanship behind a piece.

At Raniwala 1881, we work with these traditions every day. Based in Jaipur, a city with a rich history of fine jewellery making, we believe that understanding how a piece is made helps you appreciate what makes it special. Whether you are choosing a bridal jewellery set, looking for a Polki necklace or exploring Kundan earrings, knowing the difference can help you make a more informed decision.

In this guide, we explain what distinguishes Polki, Kundan and Jadau jewellery, how they relate to one another, and what to consider when choosing a piece for your wedding or personal collection.

What Is the Difference Between Polki, Kundan and Jadau?

The simplest way to understand the difference is to look at three aspects of jewellery: the stone, the setting and the craft.

  • Polki refers to uncut diamonds used in jewellery. Their natural, unfaceted surfaces give them a distinctive character.
  • Kundan refers to a traditional stone-setting technique in which highly refined gold is used to secure stones within a setting.
  • Jadau refers to a traditional jewellery-making craft in which stones are set by hand into a prepared framework, often using techniques associated with Polki and Kundan jewellery.

These terms are closely related, but they are not interchangeable. A piece may feature Polki diamonds, use Kundan setting techniques and be made through the Jadau process.

Understanding this distinction makes it easier to compare jewellery based on its materials, construction and finish rather than its name alone.

Difference between polki, kundan and jadau jewellery shown side by side

What is polki jewellery?

Polki jewellery features uncut diamonds that retain much of their natural form rather than being shaped into the precise facets associated with modern brilliant-cut diamonds.

Because Polki diamonds have irregular shapes and individual characteristics, no two stones look exactly alike. Their appeal lies in the way they reflect light, with a softer, more organic appearance than a conventionally faceted diamond.

At Raniwala 1881, Polki jewellery is closely connected to Jaipur’s jewellery-making traditions. Our work brings together the character of the stones and the skill required to set them into necklaces, earrings, bangles and elaborate bridal pieces.

For brides looking to explore the craft further, our guide to What Is Polki Jewellery? A Complete Guide offers a closer look at this traditional jewellery style.

Why is Polki jewellery popular for weddings?

Polki jewellery is often chosen for Indian weddings because it works naturally with traditional bridal clothing, rich textiles and ceremonial dressing. A Polki choker or necklace can anchor a bridal look, while Polki earrings can bring detail and presence without requiring an elaborate necklace.

A Polki jewellery set may include a necklace, earrings, maang tikka and other coordinating pieces. The right combination depends on the outfit, the occasion and how much visual weight you want the jewellery to carry.

When choosing Polki, we recommend examining the stones in natural light wherever possible. Their appearance can change depending on the light, the setting and the colours around them.

For a deeper introduction, read our guide to what Polki jewellery is.

What is kundan jewellery?

Kundan jewellery is recognised for its traditional stone-setting technique, which uses highly refined gold to secure stones within a carefully prepared setting. The technique allows stones to sit closely together, creating the intricate, richly detailed appearance associated with many traditional Indian necklaces and earrings.

Kundan jewellery can feature a variety of stones, depending on the design. The finished piece may be colourful and ornate, or more restrained in its use of colour and decoration.

What makes Kundan jewellery distinctive?

The setting is central to Kundan jewellery. Closely arranged stones and detailed gold work can create a continuous surface of colour and pattern, giving a necklace or pair of earrings a cohesive appearance.

Kundan jewellery sets are often chosen for weddings, festive occasions and traditional celebrations. Kundan earrings, in particular, can work well when you want detailed jewellery that complements an embroidered outfit without necessarily wearing a large necklace.

When comparing Kundan jewellery, look closely at the finish, the arrangement of the stones and how comfortably the piece sits when worn. The quality of the setting and overall construction matters as much as the design.

What is jadau jewellery?

Jadau is a traditional jewellery-making craft associated with the setting of stones by hand into a prepared jewellery framework. In Jaipur and other centres of traditional Indian jewellery, the craft is closely linked to elaborate pieces featuring Polki diamonds, coloured stones and intricate detailing.

Jadau is best understood as a craft rather than the name of a particular stone. A Jadau piece may incorporate Polki diamonds, Kundan-style settings and other traditional elements, depending on its construction.

How is Jadau jewellery made?

The process involves preparing the framework and carefully setting the stones by hand. The arrangement requires precision because the stones must work together within the design, both visually and structurally.

The complexity of the piece, the nature of the stones and the level of handwork all influence the finished jewellery.

At our Jaipur atelier, traditional jewellery-making knowledge informs how we approach Polki and Jadau pieces. We pay attention to the relationship between the stones, the setting and the overall composition, so the finished piece feels considered rather than crowded with detail.

Jadau jewellery is particularly sought after for bridal necklaces, elaborate earrings and statement pieces intended for significant occasions.

Karigar setting polki into gold using the jadau technique in Raniwala 1881's Jaipur atelier

Polki vs kundan: which should you choose?

There is no single answer. The right choice depends on the look you prefer, the occasion and the role you want your jewellery to play.

Choose Polki jewellery if you prefer the character of uncut diamonds

Polki may appeal to you if you appreciate the individual shapes and softer appearance of uncut diamonds. A Polki necklace or Polki choker can work particularly well for a traditional bridal look, especially when paired with silk, brocade or richly embroidered clothing.

Choose Kundan jewellery if you enjoy intricate settings

Kundan jewellery offers a different appeal, with its closely set stones and detailed surfaces. A Kundan necklace or pair of Kundan earrings can complement traditional outfits and bring colour and structure to a festive look.

Choose Jadau jewellery if you value traditional hand craftsmanship

Jadau is worth exploring if you are drawn to the process behind a piece as much as its appearance. Its appeal lies in the skill involved in bringing the stones, framework and design together through traditional techniques.

It is also worth remembering that these categories can overlap. A Jadau necklace may feature Polki diamonds, and Kundan techniques may be part of its construction. Rather than treating them as competing styles, look at what each element contributes to the finished piece.

How to Choose the Right Bridal Jewellery Set

A bridal jewellery set should work with the wedding outfit, the ceremony and the way you want to feel wearing it. The most elaborate piece is not necessarily the right one for every bride.

Here are a few things we recommend considering when choosing Indian bridal jewellery.

Start with the outfit

The neckline, embroidery and colours of your bridal outfit influence which jewellery will work best. A heavily embroidered blouse may call for a necklace with a defined silhouette, while a simpler neckline can provide room for a more elaborate Polki or Jadau piece.

Consider the occasion

Wedding ceremonies, daytime functions and evening celebrations each create different opportunities for jewellery. A statement necklace may suit the main ceremony, while earrings or lighter pieces may be more practical for functions that involve several hours of movement.

Think about proportion

If the necklace is the focal point, consider earrings that complement it rather than compete with it. If you plan to wear statement earrings, you may not need an equally elaborate necklace.

Look beyond the wedding day

Some pieces can be worn again for anniversaries, family celebrations and other important occasions. When selecting a bridal necklace set, consider whether individual pieces can work with different outfits in the years ahead.

Our bridal jewellery set guide offers further inspiration for putting together a look that feels cohesive.

How to Identify Real Polki Jewellery

When buying Polki jewellery, it is important to understand what the piece contains and how it has been made. The name alone does not tell you everything about its materials or construction.

We recommend asking the seller specific questions about the stones, the setting and the jewellery's documentation.

  • Ask about the diamonds: Confirm whether the piece uses natural uncut diamonds and request clear information about the stones.
  • Examine the finish: Look at how the stones sit within the setting and whether the overall construction appears carefully executed.
  • Understand the materials: Ask about the gold, other materials and any relevant certification or hallmarking.
  • Request documentation: Seek appropriate documentation for the piece and clarify exactly what it covers.
  • Buy from a trusted jeweller: A knowledgeable jeweller should be able to explain the materials, techniques and care requirements clearly.

Visual appearance alone cannot conclusively establish whether a stone is genuine. If you are uncertain, ask for suitable verification rather than relying only on photographs or appearance.

For more detail, read our guide on how to identify real Polki jewellery.

A Note on Choosing Traditional Indian Jewellery

At Raniwala 1881, we see Polki, Kundan and Jadau as connected traditions, each with its own role in Indian jewellery. The distinction matters because it helps you understand what you are buying and appreciate the work behind it.

When choosing a piece, I would encourage you to look beyond the category name. Ask about the stones, understand the craft and see how the jewellery looks when worn. These details can tell you far more about a piece than a label alone.

Our approach brings Jaipur’s jewellery-making traditions into pieces designed for the way people celebrate and dress today. Whether you are looking for a bridal necklace, a Polki jewellery set or a pair of Kundan earrings, the aim is to find something whose materials, craftsmanship and design feel right to you.

‍

Bride wearing a Raniwala 1881 bridal polki jadau set

Explore Polki and Jadau Jewellery at Raniwala 1881

We invite you to explore our jewellery and learn more about the traditions behind each piece. You can browse our collections online or arrange a personal consultation to discuss your preferences, the occasion and the pieces you have in mind.

To see our jewellery in person, book an appointment with our team.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Polki the same as Kundan?

No. Polki refers to uncut diamonds, while Kundan refers to a traditional stone-setting technique. A single piece of jewellery may feature Polki diamonds set using Kundan techniques.

Is Jadau a stone or a setting?

Jadau is a traditional jewellery-making craft. It is not the name of a stone. Jadau jewellery may incorporate Polki diamonds, Kundan-style settings and other decorative elements.

Which is better for bridal jewellery: Polki or Kundan?

Neither is universally better. Polki may appeal to brides who prefer the character of uncut diamonds, while Kundan offers intricate settings and a different visual effect. The choice depends on your outfit, personal style and the occasion.

Is Polki jewellery made with real diamonds?

Traditional Polki jewellery uses uncut diamonds. However, descriptions can vary between sellers, so ask for clear information about the stones used in a specific piece and request relevant documentation.

Is Jadau jewellery always made with Polki diamonds?

No. Jadau describes the craft, not a specific stone. Although Polki diamonds are commonly associated with Jadau jewellery, the materials used can vary from one piece to another.

How do I care for Polki and Jadau jewellery?

Store each piece separately in a dry, protected place and keep it away from perfumes, moisture and harsh chemicals. Avoid immersing traditional jewellery in cleaning solutions. Because construction and materials vary, ask your jeweller for care instructions suited to your particular piece.

Where can I buy Polki jewellery in Jaipur?

You can explore Polki jewellery at established jewellery houses in Jaipur, including Raniwala 1881. Before purchasing, ask about the stones, craftsmanship, documentation and after-sales services. You can also book an appointment with Raniwala 1881 to discuss your requirements.

About the Author

Abhiyant Raniwala is Co-Founder of Raniwala 1881, a Jaipur-based fine jewellery house established in 1881. The house is known for its Polki and Jadau jewellery and its connection to Jaipur’s traditional jewellery-making craft.

Meet the founders and discover more about Raniwala 1881.

‍